My Verdict on Wagamama, London
It’s time to stop being lazy and continue documenting the London trip in Nov 2008.
Wagamama, an Asian-influenced chain of noodle bars created by a UK restaurant-genius Alan Yau, is huge hit. However, I receive such conflicting accounts on its goodness. Some, like my colleague, raved while others (mostly foodies) warned me to avoid it like seafood-gone-bad. Therefore, while planning, I didn’t put the chain in my list as I figured there would be others I could fill my stomach with.
As I passed by one of its chains near the Tower of London on a grey, wet, and cold morning, I couldn’t help but be tempted. With no other beckoning restaurant in the vicinity, I thought it would not be a bad idea to see for myself what the fuss was all about. "Settle it once and for all," I argued to my husband. We went in without expecting that it would be an Asian restaurant but hoping that at least the place served decent food.
The ambiance was extremely casual. People shared a long, canteen-style table and stools, the typical European idea of a noodle-bar, in front of a long open kitchen full of buzzing chefs. At a glance, the menu was definitely Confused-Asian: Asian but with ingredients and techniques that Asians don’t recognize themselves. But we were hungry and cold. We proceeded to order.
We wanted to start with Duck Gyoza to share. For mains, I had Wagamama Ramen and my husband Chili Beef Ramen. We also ordered two bottles of Japanese beer.
The Duck Gyoza had scaldingly hot filling of cubed duck slathered in sweet and savoury sauce which was not too bad. The skin was a disgrace though: it was thick, stiff, and tanned, resembling more a samosa-skin on a bad day than delicate gyoza.
The ramens were a little more successful: both broths were sufficiently light albeit in an MSG-sort-of-way but the noodles were overcooked. Toppings, however, was impressive. My husband liked how the beef was done (tender, properly seasoned, and not overcooked) and I just liked the multitude of things floating in my ramen. They were truly high-end instant noodles with luxurious toppings.
Wagamama is no longer in Yau’s care: it was passed on among various private equity firms. I wonder how the old Wagamama used to be. But this version, for us, is probably a good place to keep warm when there is nowhere else to go. But if there’s anything nearby that looks remotely interesting, even adventurous, take the chance and skip this.
Others in the London series:
Wright Brothers Oyster & Porter House, London







Agree with you totally on Wagamama’s. If you’ve had good Asian you will most likely be disappointed.
V: Right…. It cannot be called Asian. At first I thought it at least served good food but after thinking about it for months, I decide that it’s not even good food.
Comment by gastroanthropologist — 7 January 2009 @ 7:13 pm
I have tried Wagamama when it was first opened near the British Museum about 15 years ago. It was so packed with people and of course I had to tried and all I got was disappointment. It did not taste authentic at all. So after all these years, being in UK again and seeing it has expanded so much and even have one in Heathrow T5, I went to try once as I was craving for some noodles that day, still I did not see any improvement at all. And they even have their own cookbook, I wonder what is their key success factors ? Is it just because there are no other competitions around?
V: I somehow think that this concept appeals here. I was at nooch the other day and the place was packed. Yet, even my Swiss colleague agreed it was bad. Sometimes I’m very curious: if we set up chic shop (as as Wagamama) but sell authentic stuff, will it fly?
Comment by Janet — 9 January 2009 @ 1:10 pm
ven…despite the so not good taste and very long queue on busy week-ends and lunch time, but when i was preggo almost every time i went to the city (we lived in the village) i had to had wagamama! and my favourite is that duck gyoza. here in perth they have two wagamamas, one in subiaco and another one in fremantle…but i haven’t been there even once since i landed in perth about 3 years ago! suppose i’m way over my pregnancy craving:D
V: Hi Ria, hahaha! Maybe you should try the one in Perth for comparison?
Comment by ria — 21 January 2009 @ 1:51 am